Arctic Leopard XE Pro R Assembly Guide & Video
Arctic Leopard XE Pro R Assembly Guide
Watch & Wrench Along With Us
How to Assemble & Setup the Arctic Leopard XE Pro R
Follow our detailed, step-by-step unboxing guide and video and learn how to assemble & setup the Arctic Leopard XE Pro R electric dirt bike. We take you step-by-step from box to dirt with zero guesswork. From cracking the crate to the final bolt check, plus pro tips on charging your battery, brake system setup, torque specs, and display controls!
Assembly Checklist at a Glance
| ✔️ Task | Where in the guide |
|---|---|
| Inspect box & report damage before opening | Step 1 |
| Open crate & remove shipping material safely | Step 2 |
| Install handlebars & controls loosely | Step 3 |
| Understand the brake system & bleed if needed | Step 4 |
| Install rear shock bolt | Step 5 |
| Lift bike off pallet onto a stand | Step 6 |
| Remove seat & locate wheel spacer hardware | Step 7 |
| Inventory all loose parts | Step 8 |
| Mount front wheel & center in fork | Step 9 |
| Remove & charge battery | Step 10 |
| Install foot pegs | Step 11 |
| Install fender & number plate | Step 12 |
| Reinstall battery & seat | Step 13 |
| Dial in handlebars, controls & display | Step 14 |
| Power up & verify basic operations | Step 15 |
| Set display preferences | Step 16 |
Tools You'll Need
Basic hand tools
- Sharp blade -- for cutting shipping straps, cut away from your body
- Wire snips -- for zip ties throughout assembly
- 4 mm Allen key -- initial packaging bolts, fender hardware
- 5 mm Allen key -- brake mounting hardware, bar clamp
- 8 mm Allen key -- front axle bolt, axle cap bolt
- 12 mm Allen key -- opposite side of front axle
- 10 mm and 12 mm sockets or wrenches -- rear shock bolt
- Phillips screwdriver -- switch housings, brake mounting
- Blue Loctite -- fender bolts, front axle pinch bolts
- General-purpose, water-resistant grease -- front axle
- DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid -- on hand in case bleeding is needed
- Motorcycle stand or sturdy bucket/box -- to lift the bike onto once it's off the pallet
- A second person -- required for lifting the bike off the pallet safely, bike weighs close to 200 lb
Step-by-Step Arctic Leopard XE Pro R Assembly Guide
1. Inspect the Box Before You Open It
Walk the box first. Look for crushed corners, punctures, anything that says the bike took a hit in transit. If you find damage, snap photos or record video of it before you cut a single strap and email us at revrides.com/contact, then wait for our response before going further. Hold onto all packaging materials for 30 days minimum. If a return or warranty claim ever comes up, that packaging is what gets the bike back to us safely. Once you're clear to proceed, open the box and inspect the bike itself for any damage as well.
2. Open the Crate
- Wear gloves and eye protection
- Cut the shipping straps, cutting away from your body.
- Cut the outer box away.
- Loosen the bolts holding the wheel and side panels with a 4 mm, then snip the zip ties securing the wheel with wire snips.
- Remove the fender, side straps, and any wood bracing. Save reusable straps if you want them, they come in handy.
- Cut the zip ties holding the handlebars, being careful not to cut any wires in the process.
3. Install Handlebars and Controls Loosely
- Twist the bar risers into position and set the bars in place loosely. Don't tighten anything yet, you'll need to adjust once the bike is fully assembled and you can sit on it.
- Cut the controls free from their shipping position and set the brake in place.
- Put the bar clamp back on loose, just enough to hold everything in position.
- Remove the two bottom screws (5 mm and Phillips) to access the brake mounting hardware.
4. Brake System & Setup
The XE Pro R steps up to full moto-style hydraulic disc brakes, 240mm rotors front and rear, up from 220mm on the Pro S. Bigger rotors manage heat better and translate directly into more stopping confidence once speeds climb or the terrain gets technical. If you're pushing harder into corners, running longer descents, or logging bigger loops, that upgrade matters more than it looks on a spec sheet.
The brakes ship upside down and sideways for transport, which means there's a real chance you'll need to bleed them once the bike is upright. Plan for it. These calipers take DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid only, never DOT 5. DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be mixed with each other, but neither should ever touch DOT 5.
- Move the headlight up and out of the way.
- Install the brake with the arrow marked "up" facing up. Leave it loose on the bars for now.
- Thread the Phillips screws in from underneath, short screw goes in front.
5. Install the Rear Shock
The bike ships with the rear shock disconnected for transport.
- Cut the zip tie holding the shock in its shipping position.
- Remove the shock bolt (10 mm on the head side, 12 mm nut on the opposite end).
- Have one person pull up on the tail while sliding the shock into position. This takes two sets of hands for the last bit, lift the frame and guide the bolt through together.
- Once the bolt is through, install the nut on the other side and get it tight.
Pro tip: Torque spec not confirmed for this bolt in our source material. Get it firmly tight, but don't guess at a number. If you want an exact figure, cross-reference bolt size and grade against a standard torque chart, or confirm with Arctic Leopard directly.
6. Get the Bike Off the Pallet
This bike weighs close to 200 lb assembled to this point. Do not do this alone.
- Loosen the front pinch bolts.
- The axle cap bolt is typically already loose, if not, it's an 8 mm.
- Use a plastic drift (not metal) to tap the front axle out. Lift up on the fork slightly to slide the axle free.
- With a second person, lift the bike off the pallet and onto a motorcycle stand, bucket, or box, something sturdy enough to give you clearance to install the front wheel.
7. Remove the Seat and Locate Wheel Spacer Hardware
- Flip down the small bolt cover under the seat and loosen it.
- Lift and slide the seat off.
- The front wheel spacers are stored underneath the seat, don't lose them.
- Snip the zip tie holding the wheel protector, slide the protector off, and pull the plastic axle spacer. You can save this piece for brake bleeding later or toss it.
8. Inventory Your Parts
Lay out everything before you start bolting.
| Item | Notes |
|---|---|
| Front fender | |
| Front number plate | |
| Charger | Variable amperage, charges up to 15 amps |
| Removable zip ties | For front number plate mounting |
| Rubber wire ties | For handlebar wiring cleanup |
| Fender bolts and washers | |
| Front wheel spacers | Stored under the seat |
| Left and right foot pegs | |
| Sticker | |
| User manual | Bike manual plus separate charger manual |
9. Install the Front Wheel
- Remove the pinch bolts and apply a fresh dab of Loctite. The factory Loctite alone often isn't enough to trust long term.
- Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to the front axle before it goes in. Skip this step and you'll regret it after your first heavy dirt or rain ride.
- The short wheel spacer installs on the non-rotor side.
- Slide the greased axle into place and twist the fork out to make room.
- Note the step-down on the spacer, the smaller side faces into the wheel, the larger stepped side faces the fork.
- Slide the rotor into the caliper and run the axle fully through.
- Use a 12 mm Allen on the far side to hold the axle steady, then thread the 8 mm axle bolt in from the other side. Snug only, this is aluminum threading into aluminum. Overtighten it and you'll snap the bolt off inside the axle.
- Before tightening the pinch bolts, squeeze the front brake and compress the forks a few times. This centers the wheel in the dropouts.
- Tighten the pinch bolts a little at a time, alternating side to side, until both are evenly snug.
10. Remove and Charge the Battery
You don't have to remove the battery to charge it, the bike can charge with the pack installed. If you do want it out:
- Insert the key and twist right to pop the battery lid.
- Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the battery brackets.
- Disconnect the plug and pull the battery straight up and out using both straps. It's heavy, stand over it while you lift.
The battery is keyed to install only one way, an upside-down smiley-face alignment mark makes it obvious. You'll hear a distinct snap when the retention ring locks. Plug the charger into the battery first, then the wall. The included charger runs anywhere from 2 to 15 amps. Lower amperage charging takes longer per session but is easier on the cells over the life of the battery, higher amperage is faster but accelerates long-term capacity loss.
11. Install Foot Pegs
- Pop the C-clip off with a small flathead or needle-nose pliers, then pull the pin.
- Push the spring down (your thumb works fine) and hold it in place while you start the pin through.
- Slide the peg on, wiggling slightly to clear the spring, until the pin is fully through.
- Reinstall the C-clip with needle-nose pliers.
- Repeat on the other side.
12. Install the Fender and Number Plate
- Line up the fender's index notches and arrow markers, then seat it into place.
- Apply Loctite to the fender bolts, then install with the 4 mm bolts and washers through the back hole first for easier alignment. These don't need to be tight, they're small hardware.
- Route wiring using the included rubber straps, two per side, so nothing hangs loose.
- Slide the frame's rubber stoppers down before mounting the number plate.
- Zip tie the number plate through the provided holes. Keep the tie point above the bump stops, and never zip tie any wiring. Push the zip tie heads to the backside so they're out of view.
13. Reinstall the Battery and Seat
- Insert the battery. The latch mechanism only lines up one way, if the latches don't align, the battery isn't seated correctly.
- Push down until you hear the latch pop, then close and lock the cover.
- Keep the charge port cap on whenever you're riding.
- Reinstall the seat, matching the front notch and rear tabs to their slots, then thread the bolt back in.
14. Dial In Handlebars, Controls & Display
Set your bar position so your arms sit naturally in a relaxed, slightly bent stance, not fully extended. This puts your lever reach in the right spot whether you're seated or standing in an attack position.
a. Handlebar clamp: Tighten the four clamp bolts (two per side) evenly, alternating between them rather than fully tightening one side first. The clamp should close evenly, not bottom out on one side while leaving a gap on the other.
b. Display: Keep the mount snug but not fully torqued, so it can slide instead of snapping if the bike goes down.
c. Switches: Tighten the switch housings into place.
d. Brake levers: Slide the levers in toward the bar, roughly to the middle of your grip. Levers set too far out are more likely to snap the safety nub in a crash, and levers set too high strain your wrists and bring on arm pump faster. Aim for a natural two-finger reach on the lever.
e. Final cleanup: Remove the display screen protector and the NFC key tag from the back of the display.
15. Power Up and Basic Operations
| Control | Function |
|---|---|
| Left switch housing | Brake sensor on/off, reverse (press + twist throttle), horn, headlight (off/low/high), ride mode selector, park button |
| Right switch housing | M button (mode/menu/power), Up, Down, N button (voltage/amp readout), R button (reverse, any mode) |
| Power on/off | Press and hold M. If a passcode is set, enter it with Up to select digits and M to confirm. |
| Ride modes | Left position = Eco, Center = Touring, Right = Sport/Max |
| NFC start | Place the NFC key tag on the display reader to power on |
* The display is not a touchscreen. It shows kW draw, ride time, average speed, total odometer, trip odometer, battery percentage, motor temperature, controller temperature, and current mode.
16. Display Settings Menu
Hold Up and Down together for about three seconds to enter the settings menu. Navigate with Up and Down, press M to select.
| Setting | Options |
|---|---|
| Units | Miles or kilometers |
| Brightness | 1 through 5 |
| Auto time-off | 5 to 60 minutes (5 minutes is a solid default) |
| Language | Multiple language options |
| Battery display | Voltage or percentage |
| Auto headlight | On/off |
| Password | Boot password on/off, factory reset (odometer cannot be reset) |
| Ride stats | Average speed, max speed, trip speed |
Pro-Tips for Your First Ride
| Setting | Recommended baseline |
|---|---|
| Brake bleed check | Squeeze both levers several times before riding, if the feel is soft or spongy, bleed before you head out |
| Bar and lever position | Set for a relaxed, slightly bent arm stance, not fully extended |
| Fastener recheck | Re-torque everything left "snug for now" during assembly, especially the bar clamp, front axle, pinch bolts, and shock bolt |
| Charging habit | Lower amperage charging is slower but extends long-term battery life |
| Auto time-off | Start at 5 minutes, extend if you find the display shutting off too often mid-ride |
Ready to Ride
With the brakes bled if needed, the battery topped off... chain, cables, every bolt rechecked, and air in the tires, if you've followed this assembly guide, your Arctic Leopard XE Pro R is ready for its first ride! If anything comes up during assembly, reach our team at revrides.com/contact.
Tag @revrides_official on Instagram with your first-ride photos, let's see what the XE Pro R can do.
FAQ
Arctic Leopard XE Pro R -- Common Assembly & Setup Questions
Q: Does the Arctic Leopard XE Pro R come fully assembled?
A: No. The bike ships with the front wheel, handlebars, rear shock, foot pegs, fender, and number plate all requiring installation. Budget real time for this build, it's more involved than a quick out-of-the-box setup.
Q: What brake fluid does the XE Pro R use?
A: DOT 3 or DOT 4 only. Never DOT 5, and never let DOT 5 come in contact with DOT 3 or DOT 4 in the same system. DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be mixed with each other.
Q: Will I need to bleed the brakes after assembly?
A: Possibly. The brakes ship upside down and sideways for transport, which can introduce air into the lines. Check lever feel before your first ride and plan on bleeding if it feels soft.
Q: How much does the XE Pro R weigh assembled?
A: Close to 200 lb. Get a second person to help lift it off the pallet and onto a stand.
Q: What tools are included with the bike?
A: Tools are not included with the bike. Please refer to our assembly guide, video, or the product manual for a list of tools necessary for assembly.
Q: How do I charge the XE Pro R battery?
A: Plug the charger into the battery first, then the wall. Amperage is adjustable from 2 to 15 amps. Lower amperage charging is slower but extends the battery's usable life over time.
Q: What's the default passcode for the display?
A: The default passcode for the XE Pro R is 6666
Q: How do I reset the display to factory settings?
A: Hold Up and Down together for about three seconds to open the settings menu, navigate to Password Settings, and select factory reset. This resets display preferences but does not reset the odometer.
Q: What's the difference between Eco, Touring, and Sport/Max modes?
A: Eco is the leftmost mode position, Touring sits in the middle, and Sport/Max is to the right. Each step up increases power and top speed.
Q: Do I need a second person to assemble the XE Pro R?
A: Yes, at minimum to lift the bike off the pallet. It weighs close to 200 lb at that stage of assembly, and the rear shock installation also goes faster with a second set of hands holding the frame in position.