Altis Sigma Assembly Guide

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How to Assemble & Setup the 2026 Altis Sigma eMoto

Follow our detailed, step-by-step unboxing guide and video and learn how to assemble & setup the 2026 Altis Sigma electric dirt bike. We take you step-by-step from box to dirt with zero guesswork. From cracking the crate to the final bolt check -- plus pro tips on battery charging, brake alignment, torque specs, and race mode setup.

Pre-Ride Checklist at a Glance

✔️ Task	Where in the guide
Inspect box & report damage before opening	Step 1
Open crate & remove shipping material safely	Step 2
Locate key number on battery lock cylinder	Step 3
Pull battery & put on charge	Step 4
Inventory all loose parts	Step 5
Install rear fender	Step 6
Set handlebars loosely in place	Step 7
Mount front wheel & torque axle to 10 Nm	Step 8
Re-Loctite rotor bolts	Step 9
Install front brake bracket & align caliper	Step 10
Install headlight bracket & front fender	Step 11
Install kickstand, spring & foot pegs	Step 12
Dial in handlebars, controls & display	Step 13
Connect all electrical connectors	Step 14
Install number plate & reinstall battery	Step 15
Power up & verify basic operations	Step 16
Enable race mode	Step 17

What You'll Need

Basic hand tools

• Flathead screwdriver or chisel -- for opening crate tabs
• 5 mm Allen key -- rear fender bolts, rotor bolts, brake bracket
• 4 mm Allen key -- brake lever clamp
• 6 mm Allen key -- headlight bracket bolts
• 8 mm Allen key -- axle hardware
• 12 mm Allen -- supplied with the bike; used for axle cap bolt
• 2.5 mm Allen -- display mount screws
• Phillips screwdriver -- switch housing
• 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm & 13 mm wrenches or sockets -- various fasteners
• Torque wrench (Newton meter range) -- axle cap bolt is 10 Nm; foot peg bracket is 16 Nm
• Blue Loctite -- or use the supplied Loctite that ships with the bike
• Grease -- for the front axle
• Work gloves & shop towels -- crate metal is sharp; grease and Loctite get messy

Step-by-Step 2026 Altis Sigma Assembly Guide

1. Inspect the Box Before You Open It

Before you touch anything, check the outside of the box for damage. If you find any, reach out to us at revrides.com/contact and wait for our response before going further. If the bike needs to come back, you'll want it boxed up -- so don't disassemble further until we've connected. Once we give the green light, open the box and inspect inside as well.

2. Open the Crate

• Put on gloves -- the metal tabs are sharp.
• Use a flathead screwdriver or chisel to pry each tab up, then bend flat.
• Work all the way around the bottom perimeter before lifting anything off.
• Pull off the seat cover and plastic wrap. Check for Loctite and handlebar ties tucked in with the packing material before tossing anything.

3. Locate Your Key Number

Before you go further, check the number printed on the battery lock cylinder -- that number matches your key. If you ever need a replacement key, that's the number to reference.

4. Remove and Charge the Battery

The battery ships disconnected. Put it on charge while you work.

1. Turn the key to open the seat.
2. Flip the quick-release lever up and loosen it a couple of turns -- the top will spin back.
3. Get as high up and over the battery as you can and lift with both hands. It slides straight up and out.

How To Charge Your Altis Sigma Battery:

1. Plug the charger connector into the battery port first (on the side of the pack).
2. Align using the indent on both sides -- it looks like a smiley face. Line it up before pushing home.
3. Plug the charger into the wall. The fan starts immediately and the light flashes red while charging. It turns green when full.
4. The battery also has its own charge indicator on the side.

Pro tip: You can charge the battery while it's still in the bike -- just plug the charger into the port on the side. Pulling the pack out first makes it easier to monitor, but either way works.

5. Inventory Your Parts

Lay out everything from the three boxes before you start bolting. Here's what's included:

• Charger and battery
• 19-inch front wheel
• Front number plate
• Rear fender and front fender
• OLED display with two rubber grommets
• Handlebar clamp
• Front brake bracket
• Front wheel spacers
• Miscellaneous bolts (shown in context in the video)
• Foot peg with kickstand, opposite-side foot peg, and kickstand spring
• Owner's manual and tool kit
• Certificate of approval (frame and serial number are on the back -- keep this)
• Reusable zip ties and rubber-band style wire wraps

The owner's manual has the full maintenance schedule on pages 52 and 53 -- what needs to be checked and tightened and when. Electric bikes still require maintenance. Don't skip it.

6. Install the Rear Fender

• With the seat still open, remove the three 5 mm bolts.
• Align the rear fender over the shock and tap the bolt through.
• Tighten with 13 mm hardware.

7. Set the Handlebars Loosely

Get the bars up and out of the way before installing the front wheel.

• Set the bars on the two handlebar bases.
• Drop the bolts in with just a few threads -- nothing tight. You'll dial in final position in Step 13.

8. Install the Front Wheel

• Grease the axle lightly before installing.
• Place the wheel spacer on the non-brake side first.
• Slide the axle in from the brake side and push through.
• Slide the spacer in on the opposite side and align.

The front fork will twist left to right -- that's normal. Don't force it; let it find center.

Axle torque: The cap bolt torques to 10 Nm. That is not very tight. Set your wrench to Newton meters, not foot-pounds. This is aluminum threading into aluminum -- overtighten and you will strip it. Thread it in just enough to center the wheel first.

• Use the supplied 12 mm Allen on the opposite side and snug to 10 Nm.
• Before fully tightening, push down on the suspension several times to load it and let the wheel self-center.
• Tighten left to right, alternating back and forth until snug.

Pro tip: A lot of manufacturers don't include torque specs for every fastener. If you can't find a spec, measure the bolt diameter with calipers, identify the material it's threading into, and search for the appropriate range. The video also shows a universal torque reference on-screen for the common bolt sizes used on this bike.

9. Re-Loctite the Rotor Bolts

The rotor bolts likely have Loctite from the factory -- pull them out one at a time, add fresh blue Loctite, and reinstall. Rotors come loose. It happens on every brand. Don't let it happen on yours. This applies to any bike you own.

10. Install the Front Brake Bracket

The bracket ships with four Allen bolts -- same thread pitch, but two are longer:

• Long bolts go through the bracket into the fork.
• Short bolts hold the caliper in place.

Apply blue Loctite to all four.

• Remove the brake pad placeholder.
• Install the bracket and snug the long bolts with a 5 mm Allen.
• Slide the caliper on and start the short bolts finger-tight.

Do not fully tighten the caliper yet. Make sure the master cylinder is level, squeeze the brake lever several times, hold it, then tighten the caliper down while holding pressure. This self-aligns the caliper to the rotor. You may need a second person to hold the lever while you torque.

11. Install the Headlight Bracket and Front Fender

a. Headlight bracket:

• Three bolts, same thread pitch -- one is longer than the other two.
• Apply Loctite, start the upper bolt first, then thread in the two lower bolts.
• Tighten down with a 6 mm Allen.

b. Front fender:

• The bolts are already seated in the fork from the factory -- back them out.
• Apply Loctite (10 mm).
• Put the center bolt through first, then start the outer bolts. Don't tighten until all three are started.
• Tighten down once all are in place.

12. Install the Kickstand and Foot Pegs

a. Kickstand side:

• Loosen the kickstand switch and remove the nuts and washers.
• Hook the kickstand spring first, then pull down and into place.
• Apply Loctite to the foot peg bolt and thread in. Snug all bolts down.

Pro tip: Hook the spring before the bracket goes on. Trying to work the spring into place after everything is bolted down is the hard way.

b. Kickstand switch adjustment:

• Thread the switch back far enough to slide through the hole -- about half an inch from the end is a good starting point.
• Adjust so the switch barely touches the kickstand when it's up. You do not want it to bottom out. Just barely touching is correct.
• Slide the lock washer on, add Loctite, and tighten with a 12 mm.

c. Opposite side foot peg:

• Two bolts, Loctite both.
• Torque spec is printed on the bracket: 16 Nm.

13. Dial In Handlebars, Controls & Display

Sit on the bike before tightening anything. Get everything positioned for your natural riding stance first.

a. Handlebar position: Your forearms should be roughly in-plane with the handlebars -- this is your rider's box. Brake levers should angle slightly downward so your wrists stay neutral when standing. Adjust levers down further if you ride standing most of the time.

b. Handlebar clamp: Use a Z-pattern to tighten -- top-left, top-right, then bottom-left, bottom-right. Watch the gap on both sides of the clamp. If one side is nearly closed and the other is open, the clamp is twisting. Get both gaps even before fully torquing.

c. Switch installation: The right-side switch has a notch that drops into the handlebar -- it'll pop into place. Long screw goes in the back (Phillips head).

d. Brake levers: Push the levers in as far as you can while still grabbing two or three fingers comfortably. This helps prevent the tips from snapping off if the bike goes down. There's a shear indent built in for exactly this reason.

e. Display:

• Loosen the screws on each side -- the display slightly blocks the mounting point.
• Decide: display up top or lower. Default is upright. Roll it forward to mount it lower.
• If flipping the mount orientation, swap the screws side to side so they end up on top. These screws are small -- don't lose them.
• Install the rubber grommets and leave everything loose until you've confirmed position from the saddle.
• Uses a 2.5 mm Allen.

Pro tip: If you mount the display low, you'll need to pivot it up and out of the way to open the seat fully.

f. Triple clamp bolts: Alignment marks are printed on the triple clamp bolts showing their original position. If you ever see them rotated, the bolts are loose. Check these as part of your regular pre-ride inspection.

g. Headlight: Snug but not fully tight for now (10 mm). Leave room to adjust aim once everything else is set.

14. Connect the Electrical Connectors

Three connectors come from the right-side switch:

• Two connectors have a notch and an indent -- align them before pushing home. Don't force them.
• One connector has two beveled sides -- it only goes together one way.

Each connector has a small alignment arrow. Line up the arrows first, then push together. If it's not going together easily, something isn't aligned -- don't force it. Tuck all wiring back and underneath once connected.

For the brake line: use one of the elastic-style zip ties to make a loose loop guide -- not cinched tight, just enough to keep the line tracking correctly. Twist the nub to the bottom for a cleaner look.

15. Install the Number Plate and Reinstall the Battery

• Back out the bolts from the number plate mounting location (pre-installed in the forks).
• Apply Loctite.
• Seat the two rubber grommets on the bottom of the plate.
• Route the brake line to the outside before mounting.
• Peel the protective film off the decals before installing.

Battery reinstall:

• Slide the battery back in and latch it.
• Reconnect the plug.

16. Power Up and Basic Operations

a. Emergency power button: There's a small button on the battery housing that powers the bike on without a key. It won't allow race mode, but it runs the display and all standard modes. If the bike has been sitting and goes into hibernation, press this button to wake it -- the battery indicator lights will come on first, then use the key or button to power on normally.

b. Basic operations:

• Use the black or red key to turn the bike on. Whichever key you designate for race mode is the only key that can access it -- you can't set both.
• Mode selector (left-side switch) -- cycles through Eco, Normal, Sport, and Race (once enabled).
• Headlight switch -- down = off, middle = headlight and tail light on, top = high beam.
• Regenerative braking (right-side switch) -- minus brings regen down to zero; plus brings it up to four. Press down to return to zero.
• Start button -- press to enter Ready mode (audible beep); press again to go to Park. Engaging both brakes also activates Ready mode.

A full display settings walkthrough is linked in the video description and in the upper corner. The display setup is identical across the 2025 and 2026 models.

17. Enable Race Mode

Race mode is a one-time setup through the display menu:

1. Press and hold the M button on the right-side switch to enter settings.
2. Navigate with the minus button (down) and plus button (up). Press M to select.
3. Go to Vehicle Settings.
4. Navigate down to Race Enabled and press M.
5. Password is 0000 (four zeros).
6. Select On and press M.
7. Read and accept the liability waiver on screen.

Once enabled, the mode selector cycles through Eco, Normal, Sport, and Race. The second key will only access standard modes -- useful for newer riders or younger family members.

Pro tip: If you're using the battery button (not a key) to power the bike and want race mode, you'll need to disconnect and power off the display first. With the display off, race mode becomes accessible via the button.

Pro-Tips for Your First Ride

Setting	Recommended baseline
Handlebar roll	Tips slightly forward of fork angle for a neutral standing posture
Brake lever angle	Levers angled down slightly -- wrists flat when standing, not cocked up
Display position	Loose enough to pivot out of direct sunlight while riding
Regen braking	Start at 1 or 2 -- get a feel for it before going to 4
Race mode key	Designate one key for race mode; keep the other as a standard key

Common Questions

Q: Is the 2025 and 2026 Altis Sigma display setup the same?
A: Yes -- the display hardware and menu structure are identical across both model years. The display setup video linked in the description and in the upper corner of the video covers everything.

Q: What Loctite should I use?
A: Blue Loctite on all fasteners unless otherwise specified. The bike ships with a small supplied bottle -- use that or your own blue Loctite throughout assembly.

Q: Do I have to remove the battery to charge it?
A: No. You can charge the battery while it's in the bike -- plug into the port on the side of the pack, then plug into the wall. Pulling the pack out first is optional but makes it easier to monitor the charge indicator.

Q: What if my bike goes into hibernation?
A: Press the small button on the battery housing to wake it. The battery indicator lights will come on, then power on with the key or button as normal.

Q: What if the display is blocking the seat from opening?
A: If you mount the display in the lower position, pivot it up and out of the way before opening the seat all the way.

Ready to Ride

With the crate cleared, bolts torqued, and battery topped, your 2026 Altis Sigma is ready. Grab your key, strap on your gear, and hit the trail.

Tag @revrides_official on Instagram with your first-ride photos -- let's see what the Sigma can do!