
E Ride Pro SR Assembly Guide
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E Ride Pro SR Assembly Guide
Getting your E-Ride Pro SR from crate to first ride? This step-by-step guide mirrors our popular format—clear tools list, numbered steps, torque tips, and a final pre-ride checklist—so you can assemble confidently and avoid the common gotchas we see in first builds.
Watch & wrench along with our step-by-step assembly video
Tools & Supplies
- Hex/Allen keys: 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm
- Wrenches/Sockets: 13 mm, two × 19 mm (axle ends), 14 mm (crate/base)
- Drivers: Phillips screwdriver; side-cutters; needle-nose pliers
- Optional: Small rubber mallet
- Consumables: Blue medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243), shop towels, nitrile gloves
- Support: Bike stand or sturdy block/crate to lift the front
Torque cheat sheet (general guidance when no OEM spec is provided):
• Fork pinch bolts: 9–12 N·m (80–106 in-lb)
• Rotor & small M5/M6 hardware: 5–8 N·m (44–71 in-lb)
• Bar clamp (M8): 16–22 N·m (12–16 ft-lb)
Before You Start
- Unbox smart: Use the crate/box as a “trash bin” to collect wrap, foam, and zip-ties as you go.
- Early SR note: Some first batches ship with the short tail seat/subframe. Assemble as delivered; seat/subframe updates will be communicated separately by E-Ride.
- Battery safety: You’ll remove and charge the pack early. It weighs ~48 lb—lift with good posture.
Step-by-Step Assembly
1) Remove the Battery & Begin Charging
- Turn the key to unlock the battery lid; press down slightly, then lift the lid.
- Lift the pack straight up and out (mind the weight). Do not plug into the small comms port; the round port is the charger input.
- Plug the charger into the battery first, then the wall. Charger LED shows charging → full; the pack status light displays SOC.
2) Free the Bike & Prep the Rear Shock Bolt
- Remove any crate straps/bolts.
- Pull the rear shock bolt, insert the two bushings (some units include a spare set), then thread the bolt back in a few turns so you won’t forget it later. This frees the chassis for the stand.
3) Mount to a Stand & Loosen Transport Keepers
- Place the bike on a stand or sturdy block.
- Snip the transport zip-ties securing the front and rear brakes and the front wheel. Keep the caliper pad spacer for future brake work.
4) Cockpit On (Loose)
- Set the handlebar in the upper clamp and install the four clamp bolts lightly so the bar can still rotate.
- Slide on the front brake master (5 mm clamp bolts) and the throttle housing (Phillips/4 mm). Route cables cleanly with gentle curves—no sharp bends.
Throttle safety: Twist and release. It must snap shut instantly. If it drags, reposition the housing/grip until return is crisp.
5) Front Wheel & Spacers
- Apply a light film of grease to the front axle.
- Insert the axle partially from the right side.
- Fit one spacer into the disc side hub.
- Slide the rotor between the pads, align fork legs, and push the axle through.
- Thread in the two 19 mm axle end bolts and snug to seat the axle (right-hand thread both sides—no Loctite needed).
- Center the fork: Squeeze the front brake and bounce the fork once.
- Tighten fork pinch bolts evenly, alternating sides (≈ 9–12 N·m / 80–106 in-lb).
6) Rear Mud Guard
- Remove the four guard screws, add blue threadlocker, and reinstall. Bring all to light tension first, then snug by hand. The guard is stretchy—align carefully to avoid cross-threading.
7) Foot Pegs (Left/Right) & Fold Direction
- Pegs are labeled HX-R (right) / HX-L (left).
- Install with the supplied nylon-insert lock nuts (no extra Loctite needed).
- Verify pegs fold up and back (toward the rear). If they fold forward, swap sides.
8) Front Fender & Number Plate
- Fender: Three shoulder bolts into the lower triple—add blue threadlocker. Start with the rear bolt, then the two front bolts; do not over-tighten (aluminum threads).
- Number plate: Fit with the included large zip-ties. Leave slightly loose until cockpit is finalized.
9) Display & Harness Connections
- Mount the display clamp (3 mm screws) to the bar.
- Connect the display plug under the top triple: align the notch/arrows and press fully home—no visible gap.
- Match color-coded waterproof plugs (e.g., green→green, red→red for brake sensors).
- Route the loom in front of the head tube with generous slack; zip-tie so full lock-to-lock steering is strain-free.
10) Finalize Cockpit Fit
- Sit on the bike; set bar roll and lever angle so lever blades align with your outstretched index finger line.
- Tighten the bar clamp in a cross pattern with even gaps front/back (≈ 16–22 N·m / 12–16 ft-lb).
- Re-check throttle snap-back after clamping.
11) Re-insert the Battery & Power-Up
- Refit the pack, seat it fully, and secure the latch.
-
Ignition has three detents: OFF → PRE-CHARGE → ON.
- If the display doesn’t wake after sitting, switch to PRE-CHARGE for ~5 s, then to ON.
- Basic Controls:
-
- Press P (Park) to enter READY.
- Tap M (left cluster) to cycle Eco → Sport → Race.
- Regen has 1/2/3 levels.
- Hold R and roll the throttle for reverse (walk speed).
- Headlight button is under the lamp. USB-A/USB-C ports live below.
12) Optional: App Pairing & First Tweaks
- Install “E-Ride Pro” (iOS/Android). Power the bike, then Search Nearby and select your SR.
- Default Bluetooth password: ERP123 (all caps). Rename the device (e.g., “SR-Garage”).
- Common first tweaks: Brake sensors Off (if you plan wheelies), Kickstand/Tilt On; Parking Button On/Off to taste; Mode power caps (e.g., Eco/Sport/Race at 65%/80%/100%); Speed display adjust to match GPS.
- Save your tune and power-cycle when prompted. Start conservatively on acceleration/torque sliders.
Final Torque & Safety Check
- Axle ends & pinch bolts: Re-check after the front settles.
- Rotor & small hardware: One-by-one, add blue threadlocker and snug (≈ 5–6 N·m / 44–53 in-lb).
- Criticals: Bar clamp, lever clamps, peg pivots, shock bolt, linkage, motor/swingarm fasteners—verify tight.
- Chain tension: Set free play so it doesn’t slap yet doesn’t bind through travel.
- Tire pressure: Baseline ~32 psi cold for a street/test loop; adjust for dirt.
Brake Bed-In Procedure
Perform ~10 moderate stops front and rear (about 5 seconds on / 5 seconds off for cooling). Hearing a faint “ting” sound as rotors heat-cycle is normal. After a short shakedown loop, let the bike cool, then re-check chain, axle/pinch bolts, and rotor hardware.
Quick FAQ
Q: My throttle doesn’t snap back. What now?
A: Loosen the housing and reposition so the tube doesn’t rub the grip or bar end, then retighten. The return must be crisp and free of friction before riding.
Q: The dash didn’t wake after sitting for a week.
A: Use the ignition PRE-CHARGE detent for ~5 seconds, then switch to ON.
Q: Can I turn off the parking requirement?
A: Yes—via the E-Ride Pro app. Sensors, throttle tuning, and other adjustments can be configured in the app.
Q: What’s a good starting tire pressure?
A: Start at the recommended max PSI stated on the tire's sidewall, then tune for terrain, rider weight, and speed. Recheck between rides.